Coussins in Lyon

A chocolate-filled coussin

When in Lyon, I had seen a collection of colors in storefronts that bore no resemblance to macarons, and I was intrigued. I came to discover these tiny squares as “coussins”, which literally translates to “pillows.” The appellation is close to perfection for these candies, which are smaller yet plumper than your average Fig Newton.

Ranging from strawberry to chocolate, coussins are made with sugar and almond paste and are then filled with either ganache or jam, depending on the flavor. My first instinct caused me to reach for raspberry.

For such a simple pastry, I was thoroughly pleased by the subtly sweet pink exterior, which concealed the richness of the fruit inside. It could best be compared to eating a spoonful of Bonne Maman jam (maybe something I've been guilty of doing), but without the weird looks of passers-by - or for that matter, your neighbor on the train.

Bugnes pastries in Lyon

Bugnes

View of a Salon du The in Vieux Lyon

When I was in Lyon, I was fortunate enough to have with me a resident of the city to show me some of the ropes. And while museums and parks can be nice, I knew exactly what I wanted to do in Lyon – eat.

I spent the second day of my sojourn in Vieux Lyon, the oldest part of the city, which is recognized by tiny, cobblestone streets of only pedestrians browsing ubiquitous shops and “salon du thes.” We stopped into one to try some bugnes, just one of Lyon’s trademark edibles.

Bugnes are extremely thin, fried pastries covered in powdered sugar. They’re light, crispy and the perfect complement to a café au lait. After the first bite, I was immediately taken back to Sunday afternoon’s at my grandma’s kitchen in the south side of Chicago, where we spent afternoons talking and sampling various Polish pastries of the local bakeries. Though no less messy, they were a touch more delicate, and for lack of a better term - French.